從麵包師的覺度欣賞麵包1 From a baker's perspective 1

從麵包師的覺度欣賞麵包1 From a baker's perspective is series of short articles published in 經濟日報 back in 2013. I have decided to publish them here as it answers many questions that bread enthusiasts often have.  
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很榮幸能跟大家分享本人對麵包的一些理解。我大約七年前在家開始當作業餘興趣烘焙麵包，畢業後到連鎖式的麵包工埸實習，之後跟友人創業，現正在中環經營一歐陸麵包店，工場設置在長沙灣。在實踐及學習製作麵包的過程中，發現很多烘焙書籍或在行內廣為流傳的麵包理論，都未經實踐驗証甚或是以訛傳訛。希望讀者看過我的文章，除了得到了一些製作麵包技術的心得之外，更重要的是摒棄了對烘焙的迷信，培養出獨立的科學的批判性思考，因為畢竟對何謂優質麵包的判斷是非常主觀的。

It is my pleasure to share with you some of my thoughts on baking bread. Seven years ago, I started baking at home out of interest and upon graduation, I worked as a junior baker at a local chain bakery. As my interest grew, I started a bakery in Jordan, Kowloon with a friend. Today, I am the sole owner of two European artisan bakery outlets with a factory facility in Cheung Sha Wan. Through numerous trial and error, I found that many theories and concepts in popularised in well-known publications were simply untrue or inaccurate. I hope that my column will be of help to demystify baking, and to encourage independent critical thinking among enthusiasts as the judgment of bread quality is ultimately subjective. 

首先讓我們比較一下”法式長棒”及”港式長棒”有甚麼不同。長棒由用料以至製作方法都是最為簡單基本的，而評價優良的”法式長棒”的要點與”港式長棒”的可以說是相矛盾的，所以透過比較兩者便能體會製作及品評麵包的箇中道理。

Firstly, let us compare the different characteristic of Traditional French baguette and HK baguette. Both styles of baguette are made with basic ingredients and utilize the fundamentals of bread making. However, the criteria of a good French baguette very much differs from the criteria of a good HK baguette. Through comparison, we can understand a few basic principles behind the appreciation of bread.

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傳統對長棒的要求，亦是優質長棒的定義，據我的理解就是如上所述，與港式長棒的主要分別在於香味以及口感。

According to my understanding, the above table summarizes the definition of a good traditional French baguette. The main criteria separating HK baguette and French baguette are their texture and flavor.

曾經有一位應徵麵包學徒的先生，被問及何為優質法式長棒時，他的回答是”孔洞要夠大”，他對形成大孔洞的原理也略知一二，但他卻不明白為何有此要求。從來沒有顧客向我要求法包要有大孔!這豈不是本末倒置?如何調教成品有不同的效果從而滿足不同顧客的要求?這是一個麵包師需要探求認知的課題。

I once asked an applicant, who was applying for the post of a junior baker, what makes a good French baguette. His answer was simple: the crumb must have lots of open cells. He knew the key characteristic yet he could not explain why this characteristic is vital. On the other hand, customers would not ask for a open crumb baguette, but rather, a "crusty, fragrant baguette". A skilled baker must always think of ways to balance the ever changing demands of their customers and a product’s fundamental characteristics.